![]() Don't get a DSLR, the results won't be nearly as sharp, despite what people who have sunk their $8K into a system will tell you. I use RBs for weddings now, and besides the propensity of some to blink because of the large clapping sound sometimes (shouldn't be a problem for what you are doing) it works just fine, and 6x7 is great. Just take the shot right before the top of the arc, i.e. Remember that you have a certain amount of time where the skater is up in the air. That will cause you to miss far more shots than lag. Why don' t you just shoot with the RB with the mirror locked up? It's slow in other ways, like winding the film itself. So my point stands, the lag does not matter. This is changing with the advance of high end dSLR's, but it has been this way for several years. The big selling point of MF is flash sync up to 1/500 - off camera short duration strobes are used heavily in skate photography, and the ability to use fill flash / freeze flash is very important.įlick through a skate magazine and you will find that 75% of the editorials stills are MF. You are in a situation where you need to be close to your subject yet show enough of the surroundings (spot) to give the correct context, hence the abuse of the fisheye lens (amongst other reasons). Some skate photographers even use view cameras. MF lends itself well as the tool due to the ability to exploit shallower DOF than traditional 35mm lenses. one still) can take anything up to an hour to set up before a single shot is taken. Thus you don't need fast telephoto lenses with super fast AF mechanisms, nor are you in a pressure situation. Skate photography isn't like traditional sports photography as you are shooting in a very small environment of which the photographer controls. I ended up shooting skaters with an old 35mm motion picture camera at 24 fps. wasted lots of film but I couldn't figure out any better way with MF. and motor drive - i know it sounds nuts (at a wicked 1.5 fps) but I used to shoot some skate action myself with the SQAm - by triggering early in anticipation of the right moment and shooting 3 or 4 frames over the duration of the trick. I find a cable release to be more 'responsive' than the release button on the body. all contributing to the difference between wanting the shutter to fire and getting the shutter to fire. With MF (and especially with the big boys 6x7) theres a fairly large piece of mirror to get out of the way and the shutter release is mechanical - requiring a long 'push' to trigger. BUT, what I think you're describing as shutter-lag (and I've shot with the Mamiya and with Kiev and Pentax) is not simply a delay between pressing the release and the shutter firing. There is lots of upside to this and I find when I have the lenses CLA'd the tech's find them consistently accurate and healthy. The Bronica's all have leaf shutters integrated into the lenses. As an ex-skater (just don't have the time for both hobbies anymore) and a photographer with a bag full of Bronica gear (ETR and SQ's) I'm not sure that Brony's will solve your problem.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |